David Lole on Wines
David Lole writes about wine. He says this about that — Frederic Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru Chambertin-Clos de Beze 1996.
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I’ve enjoyed Esmonin’s Burgundies since the 1990 vintage and this wine certainly is up there with the best I’ve tried thus far.
Displays a saturated plummy red core with considerable rust in the edges. This wine possesses all the aromatic hallmarks of such a renowned cru from a top vintage - Asian spices, undergrowth, exotic mushrooms and sweet earth intermingle with deepset plummy/sappy fruit with a strong backdrop of savoury oak.
The palate is drop-dead gorgeous, smooth and silky with creamy plum and cherry fruit, a nice dose of pinot sap, terrific integrated acidity and ripe, fine-grained tannins. The oak plays a secondary role here compared to what’s found in the bouquet. The finish is ripe, soft, long and savoury with enough grip to provide this taster with renewed invigoration for more.
Lovely wine that drank every bit as well the second night without a trace of deterioration or oxidation. 92 poi
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